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Your Permanent Mark: The Complete Guide to Engraving Fine Jewellery

Admin -  03/11/2025

Engraving transforms a beautiful piece of jewellery into a deeply personal, one-of-a-kind keepsake. Whether it's a hidden date on a wedding band or a bold monogram on a signet ring, a permanent mark turns metal into a storyteller.

 

But before you commit, it's essential to understand how the mark is made, what can be marked, and where it should be placed. This guide covers everything you need to know to make the perfect choice.

 

Why Engrave? The Power of the Permanent

 

People engrave jewellery for three main reasons:

  1. Sentiment: Engraving captures a moment in time—an anniversary, a birth date, or a significant location. It turns a piece of jewellery into an intimate memory holder.

  2. Identity: A monogram or crest instantly links the piece to its owner or their lineage, as seen with classic signet rings.

  3. Security: For very valuable items, discreet markings can aid in identification if the item is ever lost or recovered.

 

The Two Main Engraving Methods

 

 

When you hand your precious item over to a jeweller, they will typically use one of two primary methods, each offering a distinct aesthetic and level of durability.

 

1. Traditional Rotary Engraving (Machine)

 

This method involves a physical cutter or burr rotating at high speed, removing a sliver of the metal to create a V-shaped groove.

  • Look: Deep, clear, and durable. The cut has a three-dimensional depth and a sharp finish.

  • Durability: Excellent. Because material is truly removed, the engraving is highly resistant to wear, especially on the inner bands of rings.

  • Best For: Wedding bands, watch cases, and pieces requiring classic, deep text or simple monograms. It is superb for hard metals like platinum and high-karat gold.

 

2. Laser Engraving (Modern)

 

The laser uses a concentrated beam of light to burn, vaporise, or discolour the surface layer of the metal.

 

  • Look: Extremely precise and capable of intricate detail. Can handle complex logos, very small fonts, and even images.

  • Durability: Good, when done correctly, can be deeper than traditional machine engraving. On high-wear surfaces (like the underside of a charm), the mark may fade over decades, though it is perfectly permanent for most purposes.

  • Best For: Complex artwork, fingerprints, small script or highly stylised fonts, and thin materials where deep cutting is risky.

 

What to Engrave: Ideas and Considerations

 

The space on a piece of jewellery is often limited, so choosing the right message is important.

 

Engraving Ideas and Guidelines

 

Choosing the perfect message and placement for your jewellery.

 

Engraving Type Example Best Placement Character Count Tip
Dates 25.10.2024, XXV-X-MMXXIV Inner bands of rings, back of pendants. Keep it short and use dots or dashes.
Initials/Monograms J.T.W., ARS, **W** Outer faces of signet rings, bangle cuffs. Often limited to 1-3 characters for impact.
Short Quotes *Semper Fidelis*, "Always", "I do" Inside bands or the back of a large locket. Aim for 10-15 characters maximum for legibility.
Coordinates 51° 30' N / 00° 07' W Back of a pendant or watch. Use clear, condensed lettering.
Fingerprints/Graphics A subtle line drawing or actual fingerprint scan. Requires **laser engraving** due to complexity. Flat faces of a disc charm or dog tag.

 

The Metal Factor

 

The hardness of the metal directly affects the engraving process:

 

  • Soft Metals (e.g., Sterling Silver): Easy to engrave with either method, but traditional engraving must be done carefully to avoid deforming the piece. Laser marking can look darker on silver.

  • Hard Metals (e.g., Platinum, Titanium, Stainless Steel): Require powerful rotary tools or high-powered lasers. Laser is often preferred for depth in these tough materials.

 

Placement Matters

 

The most common placement is the inside of a ring shank, as this protects the inscription from daily wear. For necklaces or bracelets, the back of a charm or the clasp area offers discreet space.

 

Before You Go to the Jeweller

 

  1. Verify Legality: If you are engraving a short quote, ensure you have the correct spelling and punctuation, especially if it is in another language.

  2. Confirm Font Size: Ask the jeweller for a sample or a proof of the font they plan to use, as some scripts can become illegible when shrunk too small.

  3. Understand the Depth: For rings, ask if they use traditional or laser engraving. If the ring is resized later, a shallow inscription might be polished away.

 

By understanding the methods and planning your message carefully, you ensure your engraved jewellEry piece carries its story perfectly, ready to be treasured for generations.

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